رنگ کردن مو به روش حرفه ای ها

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رنگ کردن مو به روش حرفه ای ها

رنگ کردن مو

با خرید رنگ دلخواه‌تان در خانه، موهای‌تان را رنگ کنید‎

 

در این روزها که هزینه‌های زندگی حسابی بالا رفته‌است، می‌توان با صرفه‌جویی در بعضی امور دخل و خرج خانه را با هم هماهنگ کرد، مثلا شما می‌توانید به جای رفتن به آرایشگاه و سپردن رنگ کردن موها به آرایشگر، خودتان دست به کار شوید و با خرید رنگ دلخواه‌تان در خانه، موهای‌تان را رنگ کنید؛ البته برای این کار باید دانش کافی درمورد جدول رنگ‌ها، تن‌ها و سایه‌های درون آنها، روش‌های رنگ‌ کردن و… داشته‌باشید.

 

ما در اینجا سعی کرده‌ایم تا حد ممکن این دانش را در اختیار شما قراردهیم؛ از انتخاب رنگ گرفته تا واریاسیون و اکسیدان و روش ‌های رنگ کردن در آخر هم سراغ دکتر احسانی، متخصص پوست و مو رفتیم تا ببینیم این مدل رنگ کردن مو‌ها به مو آسیب می‌رساند؟

  

در چه ظرفی رنگ‌ها را مخلوط کنید؟ 

بعد از پوشیدن دستکش مقدار لازم از رنگ مورد نظرتان را در یک ظرف غیرفلزی بریزید و بعد مقدار لازم از کرم اکسیدان را به آن اضافه کرده و در نهایت با قلم رنگ آنها را با هم مخلوط کنید تا ترکیبی یکنواخت به دست آورید.

 

البته در مارک‌های مختلف رنگ‌مو ممکن است شماره رنگ‌ها کمی متفاوت باشد بهترین کار استفاده از کاتالوگ خود آن مارک از رنگ مو است.

 

از کجای سر شروع کنید؟ 

اگر برای اولین بار است که می‌خواهید موهای‌تان را رنگ کنید، یعنی موهای طبیعی و رنگ نشده دارید، باید بیشتر دقت کنید و به گونه‌ای رنگ کنید که روی هر تار مو رنگ کافی وجود داشته باشد، پیشنهاد می‌کنیم در شروع کار قسمت‌های انتهایی و طولی را رنگ کنید، طوری که با ریشه مو ۵/۲ سانتی‌متر فاصله داشته باشد و ۱۰ دقیقه صبر کنید (یعنی در ابتدا به ریشه‌ها کاری نداشته ‌باشید.) ۱۰ دقیقه بعد رنگ را به ریشه مو بزنید و ۳۰ دقیقه برای موهای نازک و ۴۰ دقیقه برای موهای ضخیم صبر کنید. اما به طور عام در مورد تمامی رنگ‌ها به‌خصوص رنگ‌های روشن و مد روز، باید رنگ‌آمیزی را از پشت سر شروع کرده و به طرف جلوی سر ادامه دهید. به‌یاد داشته‌باشید در مورد رنگ‌های تیره یا پوشش‌دهنده موهای خاکستری و سفید بهتر است از جایی که موی خاکستری یا روشن بیشتر است شروع کنید (معمولا از جلوی سر).

  

اکسیدان‌ها چه تفاوتی با هم دارند؟ 

اکسیدان که به عنوان تسریع‌کننده فعالیت شیمیایی در رنگ مو به‌کار می‌رود، باتوجه به نتایج مورد دلخواه شما و همچنین با تمایلات سازندگان رنگ‌ها تعیین می‌شود.

 

 اکسیدان ۱: رنگ را فقط به طور جزئی باز می‌کند. 

 اکسیدان ۲: قدرت بازکنندگی و روشن‌کنندگی بالا روی موهای سفید را دارد. 

 اکسیدان ۳: قدرت روشن‌کنندگی بالا با کمترین میزان رنگ را دارد.

 

از آنجایی‌که اکسیدان‌های با درجه بالا میزان بیشتری از سولفور موهای شما را پاک می‌کند، معمولا توصیه می‌شود از اکسیدان‌های با درجه کمتر از ۳۰ استفاده کنید. همچنین آمونیاک هم همین خطر را دارد.

  

کدام رنگ را انتخاب کنید؟ 

۱- افراد با پوست تیره: رنگـ‌هـای شـرابی، مسـی، شـاه بلوطی، فنـدقی و آجری.

 

۲- افراد با پوست روشن: بـلوند خاکـستـری یـا صدفی، قهوه ای مات، بـلونـد دودی و های‌لایت آبی یا قرمز.

 

۳- افراد با پوست‌های گندمگون و برنزه: شـیـری، گـلبـهـی، مسـی، کـرم نـخـودی، قهوه ای، فندقی و عسلی.

 

۴- افراد با پوست‌های صورتی و سرخ: کرم گلی، زیتونی تیره و قهوه‌ای تیره.

 

۵- افراد با چشم‌های آبی: آبی خاکستری، آبی تیره، قهوه ای و مشکی.

 

۶- افراد با چشم‌های کهربایی: طلایی، فندقی، مسی و قهوه ای سوخته.

  

برای رنگ کردن ریشه‌ها بدانید 

وقتی موها سفید می‌شوند، کمترین رویش ریشه‌ها می‌تواند زیبایی موهای شما را خراب کند، به همین دلیل کسانی هستند که ترجیح می‌دهند که خیلی زود به زود ریشه‌ها را رنگ کنند. برای این کار اول از همه فقط به ریشه‌ها رنگ بزنید، ۱۰ تا ۱۵ دقیقه صبر کنید و بعد رنگ مو را تا انتهای نوک ساقه بکشید و چند دقیقه صبر کنید و سپس آب بکشید. اگر بیشتر موهای‌تان سفید است اول از جلوی سر شروع به رنگ کردن کنید بعد جاهای دیگر را. اگر شقیقه‌ها سفید بودند اول شقیقه‌ها و بعد از پشت سر شروع کنید. در کل هر جا که سفیدی بیشتر بود اول آنجا را رنگ کنید و بعد جاهای دیگر را. اگر هم سفیدی موهای‌تان کم است ابتدا از پشت سر و از ریشه شروع به رنگ کردن کنید، بعد بغل‌ها و سپس جلوی سر را، چراکه جلوی سر حرارت بیشتری دارد.

 

طریقه رنگ کردن مو

اگر بیشتر موهای‌تان سفید است اول از جلوی سر شروع به رنگ کردن کنید بعد جاهای دیگر را‎

 

راهنمایی برای تغییر رنگ های مختلف مو 

 

۱٫ تیره کردن موهای دکلره بلوند: 

از ترکیب ۲ رنگ سری گرم(شکلاتی و طلایی) شماره ۳ یا ۴ استفاده کرده با اکسیدان شماره یک مخلوط می‌کنیم و موها را رنگ می‌کنیم.

 

۲٫ تغییر رنگ موهای آلبالویی یا شرابی که بعد از مدتی به رنگ قرمز(زنگ زده) تغییر پیدا کرده: 

اگر می‌خواهید موها را قهوه ای یا زیتونی تیره کنید باید موها را دکلره کنید و از رنگ سری طبیعی و زیتونی به نسبت مساوی با اکسیدان یک و کمی آب مخلوط و موها را رنگ کنید، در صورتی که می‌خواهید رنگ را از روی مو پاک کرده و موها را روشن کنید باید به یک متخصص مراجعه کنید، زیرا استفاده از ماده «remover» نیاز به تخصص و مهارت دارد.

 

۳٫ موهای مش شده‌ای که می‌خواهیم رنگ آن را یکدست کنیم: 

رنگn3 و۳ w را به نسبت ۲ به یک با کمی اکسیدان و آب به اندازه ای که به شکل ماست شل در بیاید، مخلوط کرده، تکه‌های مش را جداگانه با این مخلوط رنگ می‌کنیم وقتی به اندازه کافی تیره شد موها را شسته وبا رنگ دلخواه رنگ می‌کنیم.

 

۴٫ مویی که با دکلره بلوند و زرد شده است: 

یک قاشق پودردکلره+کمی اکسیدان شماره یک+ به مقدار یک کف دست شامپو+آب را با هم مخلوط کرده و روی موی خیس می‌زنیم و ۵ دقیقه صبر می‌کنیم ،موها را شسته و با فرمول زیر رنگساژ می‌کنیم: 

 

W4به اندازه یک نخود+۹ c یک بند انگشت +چند قطره اکسیدان+آب به اندازه ای که به شکل دوغ شود یا A9+c10 هر کدام یک بند انگشت+چند قطره اکسیدان+آب به اندازه ای که به شکل دوغ شود.

 

دقت کنید باید در رنگساژ بسته به حجم مو از رنگ روشن در فرمول به اندازه بیشتر و از رنگ‌های تیره به اندازه حداکثر یک نخود استفاده کرد.

  

رنگ کردن به موها آسیب می‌زند؟ 

استفاده از رنگ‌مو به دفعات محدود آسیب چندانی به موها نمی‌زند و عارضه‌ای به دنبال نخواهد داشت ولی اگر از رنگ مو به دفعات زیاد استفاده کنید، به مرور جنس موهای شما خراب می‌شود، در واقع عارضه‌ اصلی رنگ مو، خراب شدن جنس موهاست و چندان باعث ریزش مو نمی‌شود مگر اینکه آنقدر موهای‌تان را طی سال رنگ کنید که ریشه موها دچار آسیب شوند، به‌طور کلی به خانم‌ها پیشنهاد می‌کنم که سالی بیش از پنج یا شش بار موهای‌شان را رنگ نکنند. اگر بیش از این حد از رنگ مو استفاده کنید جنس موهای‌تان به مرور، کاملا خراب می‌شود و موهای شما طراوت و شادابی خود را از دست می‌دهند، موها حالتی مرده پیدا می‌کنند و احتمال به وجود آمدن موخره بیشتر می‌شود. 

 

رنگ کردن موها را کلفت نمی‌کند 

بسیاری از خانم‌هایی که موهای خیلی نرم و نازکی دارند، فکر می‌کنند با رنگ کردن مشکل موهای آ‌نها حل می‌شود. باید بدانید رنگ کردن مو، باعث کلفتی موها نمی‌شود. اگر موهای فوق‌العاده نرم‌ و بدون حالت دارید، باید ابتدا دلیل این نرمی و نازکی بیش از حد را پیدا کنید و باتوجه به آن علت‌، موهای خود را درمان کنید. بعضی افراد به دلیل زمینه ژنتیک موهای بسیار نازک دارند. درمان در این صورت بسیار مشکل است، نازکی مو در بعضی افراد نیز به خاطر بیماری‌هایی مثل کم‌خونی، بیماری‌های تیروئید، کمبود تغذیه‌ و… است، بنابراین بهترین راه حل برای نازکی بیش از حد موها، درمان بیماری‌ زمینه‌ای است ولی اینکه بخواهید با رنگ کردن موهای نرم و نازک خود را به حالت طبیعی برگردانید محال است.

  

رنگ کردن باعث سفیدی مو می‌شود؟ 

در دنیا هنوز علت‌های اصلی سفید شدن مو کاملا شناخته نشده است و تاکنون محققان فقط بعضی از علت‌های سفیدی مو را شناخته‌اند. یکی از مهم‌ترین این علت‌ها ژنتیک است. موی بعضی از افراد به‌طور ژنتیک زودتر سفید می‌شود و موی بعضی دیرتر. بعضی از بیماری‌های خاص مثل بیماری‌های غدد داخلی، بیماری‌های سیستم عصبی، شوک‌های جسمی و روانی و… نیز می‌توانند باعث سفیدی زودرس موها شوند که البته با بهبود بیماری، مو به‌طور موقتی یا همیشگی و فقط در موهای تازه رشد کرده، رنگ طبیعی خود را به دست می‌آورد و موهایی که قبلا رشد کرده‌اند، سفید می‌مانند.

 

از چه اکسیدانی استفاده کنید 

معمولا هرچیزی که برای موهای‌تان استفاده می‌کنید از شامپو و ژل گرفته تا رنگ مو باید دارای PH خنثی باشد، یعنی نباید قلیایی باشد. اگر به سلامت موهای‌تان اهمیت می‌دهید بهتر است از اکسیدان‌هایی با درصد پایین‌تراستفاده کنید، همچنین هنگام رنگ کردن نباید بیش از حد نیاز از اکسیدان استفاده کنید، چون استفاده از اکسیدان به مقدار زیاد، سولفور مو را خارج می‌کند. از دست رفتن سولفور مو نیز باعث زبری و نازکی تارهای مو می‌شود به همین دلیل توصیه می‌کنیم که از اکسیدان‌هایی با درجه کمتر از ۳۰ استفاده کنید.

 

رنگ موی گران بهتر است؟ 

من توصیه می‌کنم که هنگام خرید رنگ مو فقط به علامت استاندارد آن توجه کنید. مهم این است که رنگ از نظر وزارت بهداشت استاندارد شناخته شود هرقدر ارزان قیمت باشد و در این صورت واقعا با یک رنگ موی خارجی گران‌قیمت چندان فرقی ندارد. شاید تنها تفاوت در عطر و بوی رنگ باشد و نگهدارنده‌های متفاوتی داشته باشند ولی در کیفیت آنها واقعا تفاوتی وجود ندارد. از آنجاکه یکی از خطرات استفاده از رنگ مو،‌ احتمال حساسیت است، از خریدن رنگ‌های غیر استاندارد با مارک‌های متفرقه واقعا خودداری کنید چون در این رنگ‌ها مواد حساسیت‌زای بیشتری وجود دارد.

 

منبع: مجله سیب سبز

 

مجلهتفریحیسرگرمیدخترونه

۳۶۸ دیدگاه
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