سفر به قونیه

مجله تفریحی سرگرمی دخترونه

سفر به قونیه

 مولانا جلال الدین محمد بلخی را «مرد جهانی» می نامند. این شهرت، جدای از سرگذشت فرامرزی وی که از «بلخ» تا «قونیه» رقم خورده؛ حاصل اندیشه های مولاناست. سه عنصر مهم اندیشه گانی او، «عشق»، «صلح» و «تحمل» شاید بهترین نوشدارویی باشد که خاورمیانه این روزها به آن نیاز دارد.
 
فقط خاورمیانه که نه، بلکه در همه نقاط دنیا که دگم اندیشی و تعصب نژادی و مذهبی، مجوز جنایات خصمانه ای را علیه بشریت صادر می کند.مولانا عارف، زاهد و شاعر قرن هفتم، در «بلخ» خراسان، شهری نزدیک «مزارشریف» افغانستان، به دنیا آمد. او در سنین جوانی همانند پدر عازم «قونیه» شد، تا به تحصیل علوم دینی بپردازد. وی تا آخر عمر خود، حدود ۵۶ سال، در «قونیه» ماند. پس از مرگ مولانا، او را در محل زندگی و درسش دفن کردند و زیارتگاهی بر سر مزارش ساختند که تا امروز پا برجاست. این بنا و شهر قونیه، کم کم ملجأ دوستداران طریقت وی شد، تا جایی که گاهی بر سر پارسی تبار بودن مولانا نیز مجادله هایی صورت گرفت.

 قونیه مولان،رسوم قونیه

جو «قونیه»، در مقایسه با دیگر شهرهای گردشگری ترکیه کاملا متفاوت است

  
هفته ای به نام مولانا
«بنیاد مولانا» که شامل نوادگان و دوستداران اوست، هر ساله، هفت روز مانده به سالگرد مرگ وی را گرامی می دارند. هفت روز از۱۰ تا ۱۷ دسامبر، که به تقویم ما ۱۹ تا ۲۶ آذر است. در این روزها، همایش های متعدد دانشگاهی و «جشنواره سماع» در «قونیه» برگزار می شود. هر چند برنامه های دانشگاهی گاهی برای عموم کسالت آور می شود، اما «جشنواره سماع» که هر شب در یک استادیوم ورزشی سه هزار نفره برپا می شود، بسیار جذاب و خیره کننده است.

حال و هوای قونیه
جو «قونیه»، در مقایسه با دیگر شهرهای گردشگری ترکیه کاملا متفاوت است. «قونیه» در واقع مذهبی ترین شهر ترکیه است و هر روز، پنج بار صدای اذان در سراسر شهر می پیچد. حتی بانوان محلی نیز حجاب دارند، ساکنان آن جا به اعتقادات خود بسیار پایبندند و رعایت شئون مذهبی شهر برایشان مهم است. اهمیت این امر تا آن جا پیش می رود که حتی زنان غیر مسلمان برای ورود به جشنواره باید حجاب را رعایت کنند. همچنین برای بانوان جایگاهی جداگانه در نظر گرفته شده است.

در «شب عَروس مولانا» چه می گذرد؟
 نخست یک سخنرانی درباره مولانا ایراد می شود، البته به زبان ترکی. پس از آن نوبت به موسیقی زنده با سازهای سنتی می رسد. در این میان، اشعاری از «دیوان کبیر» و «مثنوی معنوی» خوانده می شود، که چون به زبان فارسی است برای ما ایرانیان بسیار دلنشین و جذاب است. آخرین برنامه رقص «سماع» است. مردانی با لباس های سفید، دامن های بلند چین دار و کلاه های مخروطی شکلِ نمدی به دور مرشد می چرخند. چرخیدن، با موسیقی و اشعار مولانا همراه است. بسیار باشکوه و مسحور کننده که آدم را به یاد منظومه شمسی می اندازد. شاید مراسم ساعت ها طول بکشد، اما انرژی نهفته در مجلس نمی گذارد احساس خستگی کنید.

قونیه مولان،رسوم قونیه  «قونیه» در واقع مذهبی ترین شهر ترکیه است و هر روز، پنج بار صدای اذان در سراسر شهر می پیچد

  
دیگر دیدنی های «قونیه»
قدمت «قونیه» به یونان باستان می رسد، اما بیشتر آثار باستانی این شهر، مربوط به دوره سلطنت سلطان سلیم است. درشهر و حومه آن مکان هایی قدیمی وجود دارند که، نرفتن به آن جا سفرتان را به «قونیه» نیمه تمام می گذارد. «مقبره مولانا»، «مسجد سلطان سلیم»، «مسجد علاء الدین»، «تپه مصنوعی علاءالدین»، «مسجد دارالفنون»، «شهر زیرزمینی در قاره پینار»، «موزه آتاترک»، «موزه آنتوگرافی» و «موزه باستان شناسی»، تنها بخشی از جاذبه های «قونیه» اند. 

قونیه مولان،رسوم قونیه  شهر زیرزمینی در قاره پینار

قونیه مولان،رسوم قونیه  موزه آتاترک

قونیه مولان،رسوم قونیه مسجد دارالفنون

قونیه مولان،رسوم قونیه  مقبره مولانا


«قونیه» چگونه شهری است؟
«قونیه» به مدد مولانا یکی از شهرهای پررفت و آمد ترکیه است. بنابراین هتل ها و رستوران های زیادی در شهر وجود دارند که نگرانی مسافران را از هر لحاظ برطرف می کنند. همچنین شبکه حمل و نقل شهری، بسیار منظم کار می کند. شما برای سفرهای درون شهری، می توانید با پرداخت یک تا یک و نیم لیر، از «تراموا» استفاده کنید. البته نرخ تاکسی ها، کمی گران تر است، اما در همه جای شهر و حومه به راحتی تاکسی گیر می آورید. شاید تنها مشکلی که در «قونیه» با آن مواجه شوید ارتباط با مردم باشد. چراکه اهالی «قونیه» به زبان ترکی محلی صحبت می کنند و با انگلیسی کاملا بیگانه اند.
 
آب و هوای «قونیه»
دسامبر یا همان آذر خودمان، جزو سردترین ماه های سال در «قونیه» است. بادهای سرد و استخوان سوز آن بسیار مشهورند. دمایی که برای این هفته در «قونیه» پیش بینی شده، بین ۱۱ تا ۹- درجه سانتیگراد در نوسان است. پس برای این که هوای سرد غافلگیرتان نکند، چمدان ها را از لباس های گرم پر کنید.

دیگر رویدادهای فرهنگی «قونیه»
اگر با سرما رابطه خوبی ندارید یا فرصت برای شرکت در مراسم را از دست داده اید، ناراحت نباشید. «بنیاد مولانا» دو بزرگداشت دیگر برای او در طول سال برگزار می کند. یکی از آن ها سالروز تولد وی و دیگری مصادف با زمان خارج شدن مولانا از بلخ و ورودش به «قونیه» است.

روادید ترکیه
طی مذاکراتی که میان ایران و ترکیه صورت گرفته است، گردشگران ایرانی برای ورود به خاک ترکیه نیاز به روادید ندارند. در واقع داشتن گذرنامه ای با اعتبار دست کم شش ماه، کفایت می کند. البته باید یادآور شوم که مدت اقامت گردشگران نباید بیشتر از ۹۰ روز شود.

سفر شخصی یا گروهی؟
به چند دلیل مهم پیشنهاد می کنم که در سفر به ترکیه، با یک تور گردشگری همراه شوید. اول این که از مشکل برقراری ارتباط با مردم نباید غافل شد. پس حضور راهنما بسیار مهم است. دوم آن که، متاسفانه طی سال های اخیر گردشگرانی که به طور مستقل به ترکیه می روند، با مشکلات امنیتی چون آدم ربایی رو به رو می شوند. هر چند تعدادشان کم است، اما عقل حکم می کند که خطر نکنید. سوم به دلیل اقتصادی، چراکه سفر با تور بسیار به صرفه تر از سفر شخصی برایتان در می آید. آخرین دلیل برای برتری مسافرت با تور، این است که خیالتان از بابت جای خواب و غذا راحت می شود و بهتر می توانید از لحظه لحظه سفر خود لذت ببرید.

قونیه مولان،رسوم قونیه «قونیه» به مدد مولانا یکی از شهرهای پررفت و آمد ترکیه است

  
متاسفانه ترک ها آن چنان شیدای مولانا شده اند؛ که درصدد هستند، سند شش دانگ اش را به نام خود بزنند! با آن که اشعار مولانا همگی به زبان فارسی است؛ ترک ها حتی در فارسی تبار بودن وی نیز تردید دارند. متاسفانه در سال های پیش همین نیت باعث شده است بی مهری هایی به مهمانان فارسی زبان، به ویژه ایرانی ها، صورت بگیرد که این امر با وجود سرمای شدید هوا، مشکلات سفر به خارج از کشور وهمچنین هزینه های بالای سفر به قونیه بسیار در ذوق مولانا دوستان، زده است. به همین دلیل در نزدیکی آرامگاه «شمس تبریزی»، مرشد و دوست مولانا و همزمان با سالروز تولد مولانا، جشنواره ای برگزار می شود. تبریز، به عنوان یکی از زیباترین شهرهای ایران، هرساله در اواسط آبان ماه میزبان جشنواره «شمس و مولانا»ست. البته ناگفته نماند که آرامگاه «شمس» در شهرستان «خوی» قرار دارد.
 
در ایام جشنواره در «خوی» نیز شب شعرهایی در «مقبره شمس» برپا می شود که دیدن آن ها خالی از لطف نیست. در طول مدت جشنواره تبریز، شب شعرها وکارگاه های تخصصی «مولانا شناسی» برای دانشجویان و اهل فن برپاست که استفاده از آن، برای عموم مشتاق نیز آزاد است. شاید جشنواره تبریز تا حد کمی از زیبایی های بصری جشنواره در قونیه بی بهره باشد، اما به همان نسبت از چاشنی تخیل و افسانه پردازی درباره مقام و اندیشه های مولانا می کاهد؛ تا جایی که احساس نزدیکی بیشتری به او می کنید.

حال و هوای تبریز و «خوی» در ایام جشنواره رنگ و بوی شاعرانه به خود می گیرد، و بازار سوغاتی ها و صنایع دستی فرهنگی، نیز حسابی داغ می شود.با توجه به سادگی و بی آلایشی مراسم ایرانی و همچنین واقع گرایی درباره مولانا، پیشنهاد می کنیم جشنواره تبریز را اصلا از دست ندهید.

آثار تاریخی و جاذبه های زیادی در تبریز وجود دارد، که نباید آن ها را فراموش کرد. «دریاچه و پارک ائل گلی»، «پارک مینیاتوری»، «خانه مشروطه»، «پارک موزیکال»، «موزه سنگی»، «مجموعه باغلارباغی»، «آرامگاه استاد شهریار»، «مسجد کبود» و «کلیسای مریم مقدس» تنها بخش بسیار کوچکی از جاذبه های گردشگری تبریز را تشکیل می دهند.

 

منبع: روزنامه خراسان

مجلهتفریحیسرگرمیدخترونه

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