قلعه سریزد؛ یکی از بهترین گزینه‌های سفر برای علاقه‌مندان به تاریخ و معماری

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قلعه سریزد؛ یکی از بهترین گزینه‌های سفر برای علاقه‌مندان به تاریخ و معماری

 قلعه سریزد؛ صندوق امانتی از جنس خشت و گِل یکی از بهترین گزینه‌های سفر برای علاقه‌مندان به تاریخ و معماری بشمار می‌رود. این دژ در یکی از روستاهای استان یزد به نام «سریزد» واقع شده است و این اطمینان را به شما می‌دهم که ارزش یک‌بار بازید را حتما دارد.

«قلعه سریزد»؛ صندوق امانتی از جنس خشت و گِل
قلعه بسیار زیبای سریزد که در روستایی به همین نام و در مسیر جاده یزد به کرمان واقع شده، حدود ۸ هزار متر مربع مساحت دارد و ۴۶۸ حجره را در دل خود جای داده است.

 تصاویر قلعه سریزد

قلعه سریزد یکی از بهترین گزینه‌های سفر برای علاقه‌مندان به تاریخ و معماری بشمار می‌رود

 

 در نگاه اول از بیرون که دژ را دیدم، این‌طور تصور کردم که قرار است در پشت این دیوار خشتی، بقایایی از ویرانه‌های بنایی کهن‌سال را ببینم که فقط نامی از آن بر جا مانده، همچون بسیاری از آثار باستانی کشورمان.

اما پس از عبور از روی پلی که روی خندق‌های اطراف قلعه و در مقابل ورودی اصلی گذاشته شده بود، فضایی عجیب و جالب مقابل چشمانم خودنمایی کرد؛ دالان‌هایی طاقی شکل که از دو طرف به گذرهای متعدد منشعب می‌شدند و هرکدام چشم‌اندازی جذاب را به نمایش می‌گذاشتند.

با ورود به هرکدام از این گذرگاه‌ها حجره‌ها و اتاقک‌هایی به‌چشم می‌خوردند که عظمت معماری‌شان – به لحاظ خشتی بودن – نگاه هر بیننده‌ای را خیره می‌کرد.

حجره‌هایی با طاقچه‌ها، پنجره‌ها و شومینه‌های زیبا که شاید نشان از زندگی دایمی را در خود نداشتند، اما ساختار جالب‌توجهی را به نمایش می‌گذاشتند که آدم را ترغیب می‌کرد در همه آنها سرک بکشد و با کنجکاوی زیاد، تفاوت میان هر کدامشان را کشف کند.

پشت آن حصار خشتی که در ابتدا دیده‌بودم «نخستین صندوق امانات ایران و جهان» قرار داشت که در دوران حکومت ساسانیان و در سه طبقه ساخته شده بود. این قلعه، برخلاف عنوان «قلعه» که با خود یدک می‌کشد، برای دفاع یا مقاصد نظامی ساخته نشده و چنین کاربردی هم نداشته و فقط محلی برای ذخیره و نگهداری غلات، طلا، جواهرات و پول بشمار می‌رفته است.  

قلعه بسیار زیبای سریزد در روستایی به همین نام و در مسیر جاده یزد به کرمان واقع شده

 
قلعه سریزد حدود ۸ هزار متر مربع مساحت دارد و ۴۶۸ حجره را در دل خود جای داده است.

معماری آن همچون بیشتر استحکامات نظامی قدیمی در ایران است، یعنی دو دیوار متحدالمرکز تودرتو با برج‌ و باروهای دیده‌بانی دارد. در اطراف دیوارها در بخش بیرونی، خندقی به عرض حدود ۶ متر و عمقی معادل سه تا چهار متر حفاری شده است تا هرگونه امکانِ تسخیر بنا توسط دشمنان یا سارقین از بین برود.

دژ سریزد دو در اصلی متحرک دارد که به وسیله طناب و قرقره‌های مخصوص از سمت پایین به بالا باز و بسته می‌شده است. زمانی که ما وارد قلعه شدیم در چوبی باز بود، یعنی روی خندق قرار گرفته بود و حکم پل را داشت. البته گویا دقیقا طرح باز و بسته شدن آن از پایین به بالا هم برای همین منظور بوده است. یعنی فقط برای خودی‌ها باز شده و امکان عبور و مرور را به مردم بدهد.   

تصاویر قلعه سریزد

ز حدود ۸ هزار متر مربع مساحت دارد و ۴۶۸ حجره را در دل خود جای داده است

 
در دوم که اشاره کردم هم دقیقا پشت در اصلی تعبیه شده است و حکم پشتیبان را داشته. به این صورت که اگر در اصلی توسط دشمن شکسته می‌شد، در دوم فورا بسته می‌شد و امکان تسخیر قلعه وجود نداشت.

پس از عبور از روی خندق و دروازه اصلی، وقتی مستقیم به سمت جلو حرکت کنید، به محوطه‌ای می‌رسید که با پلکان بسیار باریک خشتی، به طبقه بالای قلعه می‌رسد و از آنجا می‌توانید وارد ده‌ها حجره خشتی شوید که با مهارت در کنار هم ساخته شده‌اند. در ساخت این حجره‌ها از آجر و گچ هم استفاده شده است و تزئیناتی همانند کادربندی و شومینه‌سازی را می‌توان در آنها مشاهده کرد.

حجره‌ها اگر چه محل زندگی مردم یزد در قدیم نبوده، اما پناهگاهی برای مواقع بحران بشمار می‌رفته است. 

تصاویر قلعه سریزد

قلعه سریزد، برخلاف عنوان «قلعه» که با خود یدک می‌کشد، برای دفاع یا مقاصد نظامی ساخته نشده

 
حالا شاید برایتان این سوال پیش بیاید که این حجره‌ها اگر فقط محلی برای ذخیره و نگهداری اموال و مواد غذایی بوده، چرا پنجره، شومینه یا تزئینات دیواری دارد؟ جواب این است که این حجره‌ها اگر چه محل زندگی مردم یزد در قدیم نبوده، اما پناهگاهی برای مواقع بحران بشمار می‌رفته است. خانواده‌ها هنگام هجوم دشمنان به شهر به این حجره‌ها که هر کدام در و کلید اختصاصی خود را داشتند، پناه می‌آورند و از جان و مال خود یکجا محافظت می‌کردند.

تصاویر قلعه سریزد

قلعه سریزد؛ محلی برای ذخیره و نگهداری غلات، طلا، جواهرات و پول بشمار می‌رفته است

این اثر ملی ایران در تاریخ ۲۷ خرداد ۱۳۵۴ با شماره ۱۰۸۴ ثبت جهانی شده است.

از آخرین طبقه قلعه سریزد می‌شد فضای اطراف و سقف‌های گنبدی حجره‌ها را مشاهده کرد که بسیار حیرت‌انگیز و بی‌نظیر به‌نظر می‌رسید.

قدم زدن در میان دالان‌های باریک و سرک کشیدن در اتاق‌هایی که سقف چندان بلندی نداشتند، تاریخ را در ذهن من تداعی می‌کرد و اینکه مردم همیشه در تاریخ با مهارت و ابتکار خود توانسته‌اند آثاری بر جای بگذارند که دیدنشان در عصر دیجیتال و پیشرفته امروزی بسیار جذاب و ستودنی است.

تصاویر قلعه سریزد

قلعه سریزد, در تاریخ ۲۷ خرداد ۱۳۵۴ با شماره ۱۰۸۴ ثبت جهانی شده است.

البته باید اذعان کنم که مسئولین نگهداری از این اثر ملی ایران که در تاریخ ۲۷ خرداد ۱۳۵۴ با شماره ۱۰۸۴ ثبت جهانی شده است نیز با قرار دادن برخی وسایل و ظروف در برانگیخته کردن این احساسات بی‌تاثیر نبوده‌اند.

تصاویر قلعه سریزد

نمایش گیوه‌های قدیمی در «قلعه سریزد» که جنبه تزئینی داشتند

 

 همچنین شاید بد نباشد اشاره کنم که در گوشه‌ای از حیاط شرقی بنا، میز و نیمکت‌های فلزی چیده شده بود و آش و چای آتشی عرضه می‌شد که گردشگران می‌توانستند در صورت تمایل گزینه موردنظر خود را سفارش دهند. اما نکته جالب در مورد این بخش کوچک این بود که با انواع وسایل، صندق‌ها، ابزار و گیوه‌های قدیمی تزئین شده بود و منظره‌ای چشم‌نواز ساخته بود که نگاه اغلب گردشگران را به خود جلب می‌کرد.

من به همراه همسفرانم پس از بازدید از قلعه سریزد به سمت «دروازه فرافر» حرکت کردیم، دروازه‌ای که گفته می‌شود یزد از آنجا آغاز می‌شده.
تصاویر قلعه سریزد

دژ سریزد دو در اصلی متحرک دارد

دروازه شهر فرافر
دروازه شهر فرافر، در نگاه اول یک دیوار نیمه‌ویران بود که در اطرافش تا چشم کار می‌کرد بیابان بود و بیابان. ساعتی که من و همراهمانم به این دروازه رسیدیم، آفتاب با تابش‌های تیزش باعث می‌شد فکر کنیم که حالا شاید خیلی هم لازم نبود این بنا را از نزدیک و در صلاه ظهر مشاهده کنیم! اما چند دقیقه بعد، پس از عبور از میان قبرستان روستای سریزد، وقتی به دروازه نزدیک شدم و در پشت آن مجسمه یادبودی از آرش کمانگیر را دیدم، نظرم فورا عوض شد و مشتاق شدم تا دلیل ساخت آن را جویا شوم. 

 
دروازه فرافر گویا یکهزار سال قدمت دارد و ورودی شهر یزد در گذشته‌های دور محسوب می‌شده است. البته برخی کارشناسان معتقدند که این دروازه باقی‌مانده‌ی دیوار جنوبی بقعه‌ای چهار ضلعی و مکعبی بوده‌است. این بنا پوشش گنبدی دارد و سه ضلع دیگر آن فرو ریخته و به شکل کنونی باقی مانده‌ است.

دروازه فرافر گویا یکهزار سال قدمت دارد و ورودی شهر یزد در گذشته‌های دور محسوب می‌شده است.      

تصاویر قلعه سریزد

دژ سریزد دو در اصلی متحرک دارد که به وسیله طناب و قرقره‌های مخصوص از سمت پایین به بالا باز و بسته می‌شده است

در فاصله چند متری از دروازه شهر فرافر یک گنبد خشتی نیمه‌کاره هم وجود داشت که اطلاعاتی در مورد آن نتوانستم پیدا کنم.

در آخر شاید بد نباشد بدانید که «سریزد» یکی از روستاهای استان یزد است و در ۵ کیلومتری شهرستان مهریز و ۴۰ کیلومتری شهر یزد واقع شده‌. عمده محصول کشاورزی این روستا «انار» است که در سال‌های اخیر به دلیل خشکسالی از کیفیت این محصول کاسته شده‌است.

علاوه بر دروازه شهر فرافر و قلعه سریزد، این روستا جاذبه‌هایی همچون آب‌انبار، مسجد جامع و حمام قدیمی هم دارد.

فاصله تهران تا سریزد حدود ۶۸۰ کیلومتر است که می‌توان در عرض کمتر از ۸ ساعت آن را پیمود.

منبع: rooziato.com

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