همه چیز درباره قله دماوند

مجله تفریحی سرگرمی دخترونه

کوه دماوند,مسیر دسترسی به قله دماوند

 کوه دماوند بلند ترین کوه ایران و خاورمیانه و بلند ترین قلهٔ آتشفشانی آسیا است

 

کوه دماوند کوهی در شمال ایران است که بلند ترین کوه ایران و خاورمیانه و بلند ترین قلهٔ آتشفشانی آسیا است.این کوه در قسمت مرکزی رشته‌کوه البرز در جنوب دریای خزر و در بخش لاریجان شهرستان آمل قرار دارد. کوه دماوند که از نظر تقسیمات کشوری در استان مازندران قرار دارد، به هنگام صاف و آفتابی‌بودن هوا، از شهرهای تهران، ورامین و قم و همچنین کرانه‌های دریای خزر قابل رؤیت است. کوه دماوند در سی‌ام تیرماه سال ۱۳۸۷ به عنوان نخستین اثر طبیعی ایران در فهرست آثار ملّی ایران ثبت شد. همچنین کوه دماوند از سال ۱۳۸۱ به عنوان «اثر طبیعی ملّی» در شمار مناطق چهارگانهٔ ارزشمند از نظر حفاظت محیط زیست قرار گرفته‌است.

از دماوند در اساطیر ایران هم یاد شده‌است و شهرت آن بیش از هر چیز به این سبب است که ضحاک (پادشاهی ستمگر و اژدهافش) در آن به بند کشیده شده‌است. در آثار ادبی فارسی نیز فراوان به این اسطوره و به طور کلّی‌تر کوه دماوند اشاره شده‌است.در بندهش اینچین آمده: رود هرهز (هراز) در تپرستان است و از کوه دماوند سرچشمه می‌گیرد. قصیدهٔ دماوندیه ملک‌الشعرای بهار هم معروف است. دماوند دارای چشمه‌های آب گرم لاریجان، اسک و وانه است.

ارتفاع کوه دماوند
منابع مختلف اندازه‌های گوناگونی برای ارتفاع کوه دماوند از سطح آب‌های آزاد ذکر کرده‌اند. به نقل از درگاه ملّی آمار ایران، ارتفاع این کوه ۵٬۶۱۰ متر است، از جمله پایگاه ملّی داده‌های علوم زمین ایران و وب‌گاه رصدخانهٔ زمین ناسا، ارتفاع ۵٬۶۷۰ متر و ۵٬۶۷۱ متر را نیز برای قلّهٔ این کوه ذکر کرده‌اند. دائرهالمعارف فارسی فهرستی شش موردی از ارتفاع‌هایی را که برای این قلّه آمده‌است ذکر می‌کند که از ۵٬۵۴۳ تا ۶٬۴۰۰ متر می‌رسد.

ارتفاع نسبی دماوند، که با اندازه‌گیری ارتفاع قلّه نسبت به پست‌ترین درّهٔ بین این قله و نزدیکترین قلّهٔ مرتفع‌تر تعیین می‌شود، ۴۶۶۱ متر است که دماوند را در ردهٔ دوازدهم بلندترین قلّه‌های دنیا از نظر ارتفاع نسبی قرار می‌دهد.

کوه دماوند,مسیر دسترسی به قله دماوند

میانگین بارندگی در ارتفاعات دماوند ۱۴۰۰ میلی‌متر در سال است

فاصله دماوند از شهرهای نزدیک
این قلّه در ۶۹ کیلومتری شمال شرقی تهران، ۶۲ کیلومتری غرب آمل و ۲۶ کیلومتری شمال شهر دماوند واقع شده‌است.

رودخانه‌های پیرامون کوه دماوند
رودخانهٔ تینه در شمال، رودخانهٔ هراز در جنوب و شرق و رودخانهٔ لار در غرب این کوه واقع شده‌اند. رودخانه لار و دیوآسیاب در غرب و رود پنج او (پنج آب) در شرق دماوندکوه جاری است.

دمای کوه دماوند در ارتفاعات
کمینهٔ دمای هوا در ارتفاعات دماوند تا ۶۰ درجه زیرصفر (در زمستان) و تا یکی-دو درجه زیر صفر (در تابستان) پایین می‌آید.

سرعت باد
سرعت توفان در دماوند گاهی از ۱۵۰ کیلومتر در ساعت می‌گذرد. سرعت باد در کوهپایه‌ها گاه به هفتاد کیلومتر در ساعت می‌رسد. بیشتر بادها از غرب و شمال غربی می‌وزند.

میزان بارندگی در قله دماوند
میانگین بارندگی در ارتفاعات دماوند ۱۴۰۰ میلی‌متر در سال است و بارش در ارتفاعات معمولاً به صورت برف است. 

قله دماوند,تصاویر  قله دماوند

 دماوند یک آتشفشان خفته است که امکان فعّال شدن مجدد آن وجود دارد

 
فشار هوا
فشار هوا در قلّهٔ دماوند نصف فشار هوا در سطح دریا است.
آتشفشان
فوران گوگرد از نزدیک قلهٔ دماوند

دماوند یک کوه آتشفشانی مطبّق است که عمدتاً در دوران چهارم زمین‌شناسی موسوم به دوران هولوسین تشکیل شده و نسبتاً جوان است.فعّالیّت‌های آتش‌فشانی این کوه در حال حاضر محدود به تصعید گازهای گوگردی است. آخرین فعالیت‌های آتشفشانی این کوه مربوط به ۳۸۵۰۰ سال قبل بوده‌است.

دماوند یک آتشفشان خفته است که امکان فعّال شدن مجدد آن وجود دارد. در برخی از سال‌ها از جمله سال ۱۳۸۶، دود و بخارهایی از قله خارج شد که برخی از شاهدان آن را گواهی بر فعّال شدن این آتشفشان پنداشتند. اما در حقیقت در سال‌های پر بارش، با نفوذ آب به درون قله و برخورد سنگ‌های داغ، جریانی از بخار آب از دهانه قله خارج می‌شود و چنین به نظر می‌رسد که فعالیت‌های آتشفشانی صورت گرفته‌است.

قطر دهانه این آتشفشان در حدود ۴۰۰ متر است که دریاچه‌ای از یخ آن را پوشانده‌است.همچنین نشانه‌هایی از وجود دهانه‌های قدیمی در پهلوهای جنوبی و شمالی کوه ملاحظه می‌شود.

نام‌ها و ریشه‌شناسی
نام دماوند به دو صورت مشهور دماوند و دنباوند (با زبر یا پیش دال) ضبط شده‌است.حتی در بعضی مآخذ هر دو صورت نام آمده‌است. صورت دیگری که از نام این کوه ضبط شده‌است دباوند است. این کوه را با نام‌های کاملاً متفاوت بیکنی و جبل لاجورد نیز ثبت کرده‌اند. «نام دماوند در تورات آمده و صورت کهن آشوری آن «بیکن» است (ری باستان ۲/۶۴۲)»

در مورد دلیل نام‌گذاری دماوند در فرهنگ معین آمده‌است: «دم (دمه، بخار) + اوند = دماوند؛ دارای دمه و دود و بخار (آتشفشان)»

قله دماوند,تصاویر  قله دماوند

 قطر دهانه آتشفشان دمادند در حدود ۴۰۰ متر است که دریاچه‌ای از یخ آن را پوشانده‌است

  
روز ملی دمادند
روز ملی دماوند همزمان با تیرگان در مازندران با نام تیرماه سیزده شو در شب سیزدهم آبان‌ماه برگزار می‌شود. انجمن کوهنوردان ایران هر ساله این جشن را در روز سیزدهم تیر در دامنه‌های قله دماوند در” شهر رینه لاریجان شهرستان آمل” برگزار می‌کنند. این جشن به ثبت ملی نیز رسیده است.

موسیقی ملی موسیقی ملی دماوند در روز جشن تیرگان در سال ۱۳۹۱ با صدای سالار عقیلی در بین ۹ هزار نفر رونمایی شد.

ثبت قله دماوند به عنوان اثر طبیعی ملی
اثر طبیعی ملی قله دماوند با مساحتی بالغ بر ۲۹۵۰ هکتار در سال ۱۳۸۱ طی مصوبه شماره ۲۲۱ مورخ ۲۱/۳/۸۱ شورای عالی محیط زیست به مجموعه مناطق تحت مدیریت سازمان حفاظت محیط زیست پیوسته‌است. این اثر با ۳۹۷۶۱۱۳ تا ۳۹۸۲۱۵۰ عرض جغرافیایی و ۵۹۶۷۶۲ تا ۶۰۳۵۹۷ طول جغرافیایی در شمال شرق تهران و در استان مازندران واقع گردیده‌است. قله دماوند در فرهنگ کشورمان مظهر پایداری و استواری است و از گونه‌های مهم گیاهی آن می‌توان از بومادران، پیر گیاه دماوندی، اسپرس کوهی و گون نام برد. استفاده بیش از حد از ظرفیت قابل تحمل محیط و همچنین بهره‌برداری پوکه معدنی در اطراف این اثر طبیعی ملی، از مهمترین عوامل تهدید کننده در تخریب آن به شمار می‌آید.

کوهنوردی در دمادند
در زمان‌های قدیم عدّه‌ای خود را به قلهٔ دماوند رسانیده بودند. ناصر خسرو در سفرنامه اش نوشته‌است که گویند بر سر دماوند چاهی است که نوشادر و کبریت (گوگرد) از آن گیرند. صاحب آثار البلاد و اخبار العباد با نقل قولی دست دوم می‌گوید که عدّه‌ای از اهالی آن نواحی می‌گفته‌اند که در طی پنج روز و پنج شب به قلهٔ دماوند رسیده‌اند و قلهٔ آن را مسطح با مساحت صد جریب یافته‌اند گرچه از دور به مخروط می‌ماند. اولین صعود موفقیت‌آمیز اروپائیان به قلهٔ دماوند در سال ۱۸۳۷ توسط تیلر تامسن صورت گرفته‌است.همچنین نخستین صعود مستند ایرانی به این قله، به سال ۱۸۵۷ باز می‌گردد که تیم سرهنگ محمدصادق‌خان قاجار ارتفاع آن را ۶۶۱۳ ذرع تعیین نمود.   

رودخانه‌های پیرامون دماوند

 در جبههٔ جنوبی کوه دماوند آبشاری یخ زده وجود دارد که در جهان منحصر به فرد است

 

 مسیرهای اصلی صعود
برای رسیدن به قله دماوند، مسیرهای مختلفی وجود دارند که شناخته‌شده‌ترین آن‌ها این جبهه‌ها هستند:

جبههٔ شمالی؛ مسیر صعود این جبهه از میان دو یخچال سیوله (سمت راست) و دوبی سل (سمت چپ) صورت می‌گیرد.

جبههٔ شمال شرقی؛ پناهگاه تخت فریدون در این مسیر قرار دارد.

جبههٔ غربی؛ پناهگاه سیمرغ در این مسیر قرار دارد.

جبههٔ جنوبی؛ از سمت جنوب شرقی کوه. پلور، رینه، گوسفندسرا و بارگاه سوم در این مسیر قرار می‌گیرند.

آسان‌ترین این مسیرها جبهه جنوبی و سخت‌ترین آنها جبهه شمالی است. سه جبهه شمالی، جنوبی و شمال شرقی در نزدیکی روستاها قرار گرفته‌اند و همچنین همگی دارای جان‌پناه در میان راه هستند. در مسیر جنوبی، آبشاری وجود دارد که همهٔ سال یخ‌زده‌است و تنها در تابستان‌های بسیار گرم، جاری می‌شود که به همین دلیل به آن آبشار یخی گفته می‌شود. این آبشار با قرار داشتن در ارتفاع ۵۱۰۰ متری، از نظر ارتفاع از سطح دریا مرتفع‌ترین آبشار خاورمیانه‌است.

پناهگاه‌ها
در نقشه راهنمای صعود به قله‌های البرز مرکزی پناه‌گاه‌هایی به شرح زیر مشخص شده‌است:

پناه‌گاه گوسفندسرا (کوهپایه) در ارتفاع ۲۹۵۰ متری.
بارگاه سوم (یال جنوبی) در ارتفاع ۴۱۵۰ متری.
پناه‌گاه سیمرغ (یال غربی) در ارتفاع ۴۱۵۰ متری.
پناه‌گاه تخت فریدون (یال شمال شرقی) در ارتفاع ۴۳۶۰ متری.
جانپناه فلزی (جبهه شمالی) در ارتفاع ۴۰۰۰ متری    

رودخانه‌های پیرامون دماوند

در ارتفاعات مختلف کوه دماوند، گیاهان فراوان و گوناگونی می‌رویند

 
آبشار موجود در کوه دمادند
 در جبههٔ جنوبی کوه دماوند آبشاری یخ زده وجود دارد که در جهان منحصر به فرد است. بلندی آن ۷ متر و قطر آن ۳ متر می‌باشد. یخ آن هیچ‌گاه ذوب نمی‌شود. در فصل تابستان، هر روز بر اثر تابش آفتاب در حدود ظهر و یک ساعت بعد از ظهر، دمای هوا به بالای صفر می رسد و به دنبال آن آب بسیار کمی جاری می‌شود و در حدود ۴ بعد از ظهر، دمای هوا به زیر صفر می‌رسد و یخ ذوب شده دوباره منجمد می‌شود و به این ترتیب آبشاری یخی پدید می‌آید که همواره یخ زده است. در بالای این آبشار گودالی وجود دارد که در تمام طول سال پوشیده از برف است. آبشار یخی کوه دماوند با قرار داشتن در ارتفاع ۵۱۰۰ متری، از نظر ارتفاع از سطح دریا مرتفع ترین آبشار در خاورمیانه می‌باشد.

 

 یخچال‌های معروف کوه دماوند
یخچال سیوله (جبهه شمالی)
یخچال دوبی سل (جبهه شمالی)
یخچال عروسکها (جبهه شمالی)
یخچال دره یخار (شمال شرقی)
یخچال خورتاب سر
یخچال شمال غربی
یخچال غربی

 

پوشش جانوری کوه دماوند
این منطقه به دلیل موقعیت ویژهٔ آن که از شمال به جنگل و از جنوب به کوه‌های هم‌مرز کویر مشرف است، میزبان انواع مختلفی از جانوران است، از جمله:

جانوران شکارچی چهارپا روباه، شغال، سگ و گرگ در پیرامون دماوند پراکنده‌اند. این جانوران تا ارتفاع ۴۰۰۰متری کوه دماوند هم دیده می‌شوند. خرس‌ها هم در این منطقه وجود دارند، اما بیشتر در غرب و شمال دیده می‌شوند و از ارتفاعات بلند دوری می‌کنند.

جانوران گیاه‌خوار کل، میش، آهو، گراز، خرگوش. به جز حیوانات گراز و خرگوش که در دشت‌های کوهپایه‌ای کوه دماوند زندگی می‌کنند، دیگر جانوران فصل‌های گرم را در ارتفاعات سپری کرده و با سرد شدن هوا به مرور ارتفاع کم می‌کنند. این جانوران تا ۵۰۰۰ متری هم بالا می‌روند.

پرندگان از پرندگان شکارچی، عقاب طلایی، جغد و خفاش را می‌توان نام برد. دیگر پرندگان این منطقه تیهو، کبک، سینه سیاه و طوطی دارکوب هستند.

دیگر جانوران تقریبا ۵ نوع مار، انواع عقرب، بزمجه، انواع خانوادهٔ موش‌ها و گورکن در این منطقه دیده می‌شوند. بیشتر گزنده‌های این محدوده سم مهلکی ندارند؛ حتی نیش خطرناک ترین خزنده‌ها نیز تا چند ساعت پس از گزش قابل درمان است. در کوه دماوند، گزندگان در ارتفاعات بالاتر از ۴۰۰۰متر، بسیار کم به چشم می‌خورند. بر روی قلهٔ دماوند، لاشهٔ یخ زدهٔ چند حیوان دیده می‌شود. این لاشه‌ها چندین سال است که در این مکان دیده می‌شوند و شامل حیواناتی مانند گوسفند و بز کوهی است. دلیل راه یابی این حیوانات به قلهٔ کوه دماوند و مرگ آن‌ها به خوبی مشخص نیست؛ شاید به دلیل وجود گاز گوگرد، سرما، گرسنگی و یا غیره مرده باشند.

     

رودخانه‌های پیرامون دماوند

 دامنهٔ کوه دماوند در ارتفاع ۲۰۰۰ تا ۳۵۰۰ متری کاملا پوشیده از شقایق است

 

پوشش گیاهی دماوند
در ارتفاعات مختلف کوه دماوند، گیاهان فراوان و گوناگونی می‌رویند که برخی از آن‌ها فقط در یک ارتفاع خاصی دیده می‌شود. گیاهان این منطقه که به اسم دماوند نامگذاری شده‌اند عبارتند از: کلاه میرحسن دماوندی، کزل دماوندی، بومادران دماوندی، پیرگیاه دماوندی، ریش قوش دماوندی، فراموشم مکن دماوندی، زنگوله‌ای دماوندی، کتانی دماوندی و ماشک دماوندی. در ارتفاع ۳۲۰۰ تا ۳۵۰۰ متر علف و بته‌های بلند و خاردار و به هم پیوسته وجود دارند.

 

برخی از انواع بته‌های خاردار دماوند عبارتند از: کلاه میر حسن دماوندی، خارپشتی، گونه‌های هزار خار (مانند گون)، بته‌های بنفش رنگ اسپرس پشته‌ای و گچ دوست گل سنگی. از گونه‌های ورموت (افسنتین) نیز در دماوند وجود دارند که عبارتند از: درمنهٔ کوهی، درمنهٔ معطر، درمنهٔ کوهسری و گونهٔ فراوان درمنهٔ شرقی.

 

برخی دیگر از گونه‌های گیاهای دماوند عبارتند از: کاج آلپ، اسپرس کوهی نیمه کروی، گون، یاسمن صخره‌ای، ازمکی کوهسری، پیربهار دنایی، شبدر شاه بلوطی، ترشک کوهسری، دغدغک البرزی، پلاخور بوته‌ای، گالش انگور، تیره گل، نسترن وحشی، قفقازی، رُز گردآلود، گز، علف بره، چمن آراراتی، چمن گندمی آسیای مرکزی، جاروی علفی بامی، علف قرمز، جو چمنزار، ملیکای بی زبانک، علف صورتی، چاودار هراتی، شبه یولاف شکننده، ریش سنبل، خشخاش طناز، شکرتیغال و شکرتیغال مشهدی، چون جاشیر، سریش و در جاهای مرطوب زبان طلا، پیرسنبل، قدومهٔ پرشاخه، جعفری فرنگی معطر، بادرنجبویهٔ دنایی، خاکشیر تلخ کوتوله، گل بی مرگ طلایی، پنجه برگ نقره گون، آزاد بری، پنجه برگ همدانی، دنایی، سنبلهٔ ارغوانی و مینای پرکپهٔ برگ نقره‌ای.

 

دامنهٔ کوه دماوند در ارتفاع ۲۰۰۰ تا ۳۵۰۰ متری کاملا پوشیده از شقایق است. این شقایق منحصر به فرد در دنیا شناخته شده است و با نام شقایق لار و رینه در کتاب‌های معتبر گیاه‌شناسی جهان به ثبت رسیده. همچنین این منطقه از لحاظ مرتع و چراگاه بسیار غنی است؛ حتی در ارتفاعات بلند دماوند نیز (زیر چهار هزار متر) از این بابت فقر چندانی وجود ندارد.

 

آسیب‌ها
مهمترین عوامل آسیب به دماوند عبارت اند از:
معدن کاوی
جاده کشی
چرای بیش از حد دام
زباله

مشکلات دیگری که کوه دماوند و محدودهٔ پیرامون آن را تهدید می‌کنند عبارتند از: ساخت و ساز بی ضابطه، تصرف منابع طبیعی برای استفادهٔ غیرقانونی و شخصی، افزایش جمعیت و خودروها، حضور بیش از اندازهٔ گردشگران بدون آن که آموزش‌های لازم در رابطه با طبیعت‌گردی و حفظ محیط زیست به آن‌ها داده شود، نوشتن یادگاری در طول مسیر به ویژه بر فراز قلهٔ دماوند، نصب تابلوهای یادبود و پرچم‌های گروه‌ها و یادگاری‌های کشته‌شدگان، کمبود اقامتگاه و تبلیغات نامناسب.

 

 منبع:seeiran.ir

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