کائوله، شهری که روزگاری میزبان شیرازی ها بوده!

مجله تفریحی سرگرمی دخترونه

جاذبه های گردشگری آفریقا,دیدنی های آفریقا

 شهر آفریقایی «کائوله» در ۷۰ کیلومتری دارالسلام پایتخت کشور تانزانیا

 

 شهر آفریقایی «کائوله» در ۷۰ کیلومتری دارالسلام پایتخت کشور تانزانیا قرار دارد . اینجا روزگاری یکی از مهم ترین بندرگاه هایی بود که اسیران و بردگان سیاه پوست را در آن سوار و پیاده می کردند. این شهرستان کوچک اما دلایل بیشتر و خاص تری برای معروف شدن دارد؛ ساکنان اینجا اصلیتی ایرانی دارند! آفریقای های ساکن این بخش کوچک از تانزانیا، شهرشان را شبیه شیراز بنا کرده اند و معتقدند که تبارشان به اهالی فارس می رسد. این ادعا چقدر واقعیت دارد؟ برای فهمیدن صحت و سقم آن چه مطرح شده. این گزارش را از دست ندهید.

کائوله، شهری که گفته می شود روزگاری میزبان شیرازی ها بوده، این روزها به یک مقصد گردشگری مهم و معتبر تبدیل شده که عده زیادی از توریست ها یا محققان معماری به آنجا می روند. هر چند این شهر دیگر رونق سابق را ندارد و نزدیک ترین شهر به آن، یعنی «باگامویو» فقط یک هتل دارد اما درآمد شرکت های توریستی و برگزار کننده تورهای «سافاری» (تورهای صحرایی) از اینجا به هیچ عنوان کم نیست.
 
توریست ها و محقق ها یادداشت ها یا سفرنامه هایی در این باره منتشر کرده اند. یکی از مهم ترین و جدی ترین گزارش هایی که درباره شهر۸ «کائوله» وجود دارد، توسط خبرنگار سایت خبری «واشنگتن تایمز» نوشته شده است. خبرنگار، سفرش را از یک شهر بندری آغاز کرده، با مردم محلی گفتگو کرده و بعد از این سراغ شهر باستانی معروف رفته است. آنچه در ادامه می خوانید، بخش هایی از روایت او درباره شهری است که زمانی یک شهر پر جنب و جوش بوده و حالا ویرانه ای نسبتا پرشکوه است. او سعی کرده تا در این گزارش، دلیل تبار شیرازی اهالی منطقه را هم بررسی کند.

مصاحبه با پیرترین مرد شهر
رسیدن به تانزانیا با هواپیما امکان پذیر است اما در گذشته، از راه اقیانوس هند و شرق قاره آفریقا به این منطقه وارد می شدند. «زنبار» نامی بود که قبلا به این سرزمین داده بودند. شهر «باگومویو» که یکی از نزدیک ترین مناطق به «کائوله» باستانی است، خاطره های تاریخی فراوانی دارد.

تا چند دهه پیش، یکی از بندرگاه های مهم مربوط به «تجارت برده» همین جا بوده است. «منگوتی ایدی موریسو» یکی از قدیمی ترین اهالی شهر باگومویو است که به گفته خیلی از اهالی محل، بیشتر از ۱۰۰ سال عمر کرده است. سن و سال او آن قدر زیاد است که طبق ادعای خودش، در دوران کودکی آخرین نسل از برده ها را به چشم دیده و خاطره های شان را نیز شنیده است.

او می گوید: «من در آن زمان بسیار جوان بودم و کار اصلی ام گله داری بود اما آن سال ها را خیلی خوب به خاطر دارم. یادم می آید که بردگان را با هزار مشقت از کشتی ها پیاده می کردند و در حالی که گردن شان از درد می سوخت و فریادشان از هر سو بلند می شد، داغ بردگی را بر پشت شان نقش می کردند.»

البته صحت حرف های او لزوما نمی تواند مورد تایید باشد چون برده داری مدت هاست در دنیا منسوخ شده است. با این وجود مردم محلی به آقای موریسو بسیار اعتماد دارند و می گویند بخشی از چیزهایی که درباره گذشته می گوید، خاطره های پدران خودش است.

البته اینجا فقط مقصد بردگان بیچاره بود. از قرن شانزدهم به بعد، این بندر شلوغ مقصد بسیاری از کسانی بود که می خواستند از راه اقیانوس وارد قاره آفریقا بشوند. اعراب و سایر آسیایی ها اولین مسافران آفریقا بودند. بعد از آنها مردم اروپا، به خصوص آلمان و انگلستان اینجا را به عنوان یکی از مقصدهای شان انتخاب کردند. 

جاذبه های گردشگری آفریقا,دیدنی های آفریقا

 آفریقای ها، شهرشان «کائوله» را شبیه شیراز بنا کرده اند و معتقدند که تبارشان به اهالی فارس می رسد

 
بگویید کائوله، بخوانید شیراز
برای رسیدن به محل زندگی ایرانی ها باید راه تان را از بندر به سمت جنوب ادامه بدهید. در اینجا شهرستان کوچکی به نام «کائوله» قرار گرفته که ادعا می شود بازماندگان ایرانیان در آن زندگی می کنند. اینجا زیر نظر شهر «باگومویو» اداره می شود و زیرمجموعه ای از آن منطقه به شمار می رود، هر چند زمانی یک شهر بزرگ و باشکوه بوده است.

داستان شهر کائوله به سال ها قبل یعنی به قرن سیزدهم میلادی بر می گردد. در دوران اوج شکوه این منطقه تجاری، افراد زیادی از شهرهای مختلف دنیا د ر این منطقه زندگی می کرده اند. بازمانده قبرهایی که از آن روزگار به جای مانده نشان منی دهد که بخش بزرگی از مقبره ها به تقلید از آرامگاه های شیرازی، حالت طاقی شکل دارند.

کائوله اما این روزها دیگر اثری از آن جلال و جبروت گذشته ندارد. یک شهر کوچک در کشور تانزانیاست که در کنارش، بازمانده های تاریخی به همین نام وجود دارد. این شهر نسبتا قدیمی و ویرانه های اطرافش در سه مایلی شهر «باگامویو» در سواحل اقیانوس هند قرار گرفته اند. بنابر اسناد به جای مانده تاریخی و سفرنامه های موجود، این شهر در طول قرن ۱۳ و ۱۶ میلادی ساخته شده و بازمانده از زمانی است که گروهی از مسلمانان شیرازی تبار در آنجا سکونت داشته اند.

اینجا آنقدر از بناهای تاریخی به سبک ایرانی پر شده که کمتر کسی را به یاد مناطق خشک آفریقایی می اندازد. کسانی که شیراز را از نزدیک دیده باشند، ممکن است با دیدن چند مسجد ایرانی – آفریقایی اینجا، حتی دل شان هوس رفتن به شیراز را بکند. شاید برای تان جالب باشد که بدانید بنابر روایت هایی، قدیمی ترین مسجد آفریقا در کائوله بنا شده است.

به جز مساجد بزرگ و خاص این شهر پرجلال و باشکوه، بقایای قبرستانی در اینجا وجود دارد که بنابر گفته مردم محلی، آرامگاه سلطان های ایرانی حاکم در این منطقه بوده است. برخی از مردم محلی، حتی نام این افراد را هم به خاطر دارند. «سلطان محمد الحاتم البراوی»، نام یکی از سلطان های این منطقه بوده است. اگر دل تان می خواهد زیبایی های خاص این منطقه را به چشم ببینید، باید سری به موزه کوچکی که در آنجا ساخته شده بزنید. آثار به نمایش در آمده در این موزه از ملیت های مختلفی هستند. بشقاب های چینی و وسایلی که استفاده از آنها در ایران رواج داشته در کنار هم به نمایش در آمده اند. این موضوع نشان می دهد که شیرازی های ساکن در این منطقه با بقیه نقاط آفریقا و حتی چینی ها در شرق دور، مراوده و مکاتبه داشته اند.
 
شهر «بروببین»
حضور ایرانی ها در این بخش از تانزانیا آن قدر جدی و مهم بوده که از دوران فرمانروایی آنها با عنوان «عصر شیرازی» هم یاد می شود. این شهر تا پیش از آغاز «عصر شیرازی» به نام «پومبوجی» نامیده می شد اما بعد از حضور شیرازی ها اسم جدید «کائوله» را رویش گذاشتند که در زبان محلی «برو و ببین» معنا می داد. این نام گذاری عجیب هم این طور تفسیر می شود: «از آنجا که ایرانی ها (شیرازی ها) در زمان سکونت در این منطقه بناهای شگفت انگیزی ساخته بودند، همه مردم، یکدیگر را به دیدن این شگفتی ها دعوت می کردند. به همین دلیل هم اینجا به عنوان یک مقصد شگفت آور شناخته می شد که همه برای دیدن آن کنجکاو بوده اند.» این بناهای شگفت آور به مرور زمان تخریب شده و آسیب هایی دیده است. 

کائوله,روستای کائوله در آفریقا

 داستان شهر کائوله به سال ها قبل یعنی به قرن سیزدهم میلادی بر می گردد

 
داستان سفر شیرازی ها به زنگبار
شیرازی های آفریقایی تبار چطور به این منطقه آمده اند؟ این سوالی است که مدت هاست ذهن بسیاری از تاریخ شناسان را به خودش مشغول کرده بود. بنابر اسناد به دست آمده، گروهی از ایرانی ها – به خصوص گروهی از تجار شیرازی – با دو هدف تجاری و گسترش اسلام سوار بر کشتی های خودشان راهی مناطق دوردست از جمله آفریقا می شوند.

آنها در طول سفرهای شان به مناطقی که این روزها کشورهای «سومالی»، «کنیا»، «تانزانیا» و «مجمع الجزایر کومور» قرار گرفته رسیده و در همانجا مأوا می گیرند. آنها جزو اولین گروه از مسلمانان شیعه ای بودند که از مرزهای شرقی قاره سیاه وارد این منطقه شده بودند. تجار ایرانی از طریق بندر سیراف و خلیج فارس وارد آب های اقیانوس آزاد شده و به آفریقا رسیده بودند.
 
حضور ایرانی ها در منطقه ای که بعدها به شهر «برو ببین» مشهور شد، از جهات بسیاری برای بومی ها مورد توجه بوده است. آنها با زبان دیگری صحبت می کرده اند، دین متفاوتی داشته و البته اجناسی مثل فنجان، صابون و شیشه های رنگی با خود می کردند که تا آن زمان هیچ آفریقایی آن را ندیده بود.

به نظر می رسد بعد از قرن شانزدهم میلادی، دیگر شیرازی تبار چندانی در شهر باقی نمانده باشد. این گروه در فرهنگ بومی منطقه حل شده و بخشی از مردم آفریقا شدند به طوری که دیگر یک شیرازی اصیل در منطقه وجود ندارد. با این وجود هنوز هم شیرازی بودن در بین اهالی منطقه نشان دهنده اصالت است و زمانی که می خواهند به اهمیت و توانایی های کسی اشاره کنند، می گویند: «او شیرازی است!»

جاذبه های گردشگری آفریقا,دیدنی های آفریقا 

کائوله، شهری که روزگاری میزبان شیرازی ها بوده، اکنون به یک مقصد گردشگری مهم و معتبر تبدیل شده

 
ویرانه هایی به وسعت دانشگاه
این ویرانه ها به جز جذابیت خاصی که برای بعضی از توریست ها دارند، برای اهالی شهرهای نزدیک، حالت تقدس دارند به طوری که قبرستان سلطان محل گردهمایی گروهی از مردم محلی است. چاه آبی در این منطقه وجود دارد که سال هاست مردم با نیت تبرک از آن آب می نوشند.

«نویل چیتیک»، باستان شناس و رییس موسسه تحقیقاتی «شرق آفریقا» اولین کسی بود که در سال ۱۹۵۸ میلادی این ویرانه های باستانی را کشف کرده و ترتیبی داد تا بازمانده های این تمدن قدیمی سر و سامان داده شوند.

«سیاورزی هونگو» یکی از مسئولان دولت محلی که در بازدید از منطقه، خبرنگار «واشنگتن تایمز» را همراهی می کرده، درباره ویژگی های خاص منطقه می گوید: «در طول سال های اخیر، گروهی از معماران به این منطقه آمده اند تا از شیوه ساختمان سازی در این منطقه نکات جالبی را یاد بگیرند. گردشگران معمولا در اینجا – که منطقه خوش آب و هوایی بوده و از نظر گروهی، شبیه شیراز است – استراحت می کنند اما این منطقه برای کسانی که بخواهند درباره معماری های خاص آموزش ببینند، یک دانشگاه به شمار می رود.» 

 

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مجلهتفریحیسرگرمیدخترونه

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